Travelling Trio

Bali – Candidasa/Sanur

• By Denise
• August 17, 2015
• 2 Comments

After having our Perth flights disrupted (due to volcanic ash) we eventually made our way to Bali (via Singapore/Surabaya) and got about 4-5hours sleep in a 48hour timeframe.  Poor ol’ Carter was a real trouper and seemed to manage.  It was a mission but Bali is the place where we wanted to be so that we could rest and relax.

View from our Hotel

However, it did take us a few days to get accustomed to the warmer, humid Bali weather which results in very sticky bodies but it hasn’t taken long to feel relaxed. It is the balinese way.

First stop is Candidasa which is on the East Coast and is a favourite place of Dave’s. He had visited some 25 years ago and has noticed a huge change and yet some things have not changed. He visited again just ten years ago when Jan, Evelyn and I were in Bali too. We all came to love the small resort and the people working there. One of the staff members Wayan, has good english and is such a lovely young man. Eager to help and always enthusiastic about talking to us. He is 24 and has a balinese girlfriend Julie, who he hopes to marry some day soon. He has been working two jobs in order to save money for their wedding which will cost them about 35-40 million rupiah (about $ZN4k +).  The ceremonies last for three days – the first day holding the formal ceremony in front of family and celebrate with a suckling pig for food and other festivities, the second and third days are festivities and celebrations for family and friends.

The first born child in Balinese custom is always named “Wayan” so if you meet someone with this name then you will always know where they line up in the family.

Our favourite “Wayan” on the right.

Our first trip was a snorkelling one out to the local reef. Another Wayan took us out on his small boat and we were lucky enough to see the most beautifully coloured fish – reminding me of the fish in Finding Nemo. The fish in this reef were not accustomed to bread so the bread I had taken was of no effect. Carter had taken his Go-pro and managed to get some great video footage of Dave diving deep to the bottom of the sea. He is learning a lot with his Go-pro and is desperate to get a selfie stick. Unfortunately these are not on offer at Candidasa. In a few days we will head back to Sanur (closer to the hub of Bali) and it is likely we will find the selfie sticks and other attachments there.

First Play with Go-Pro

Ketuk, our taxi driver took us to the local market, a local village, chocolate factory and to the place where you can obtain Luwak Coffee.

The local market was based in Luampura and again an eye opener for all. Dead chickens and fresh meat just sitting waiting to be purchased, fresh fish on upside down plates ready for the chef to buy for tea that night, many many different herbs, spices, vegetables, wares and basic needs on sale here. The smell in places was more than we could take at times and just a little tip – don’t expect the locals to understand you. When Dave asked if a packet of (what looked like caramelised peanuts) peanuts was sweet the answer was “Sweet, oh yah, yes sweet” but was most definitely NOT sweet.

We were able to find a material shop to get some velcro for Carter’s Go-Pro so that he could tie this on his wrist while in the water (until we can get the real deal from Sanur/Kuta etc) and the assistant there was most helpful. In fact, everywhere we have been the Balinese people have been extremely helpful and nice. Such gentile people they are always willing to please.

Anyways, something incredible happened on this trip – first I drank coffee and I really don’t like coffee and second, me drinking coffee that came from the poo of a possum – simply amazing. A highlight and something that probably should be on one’s ‘bucket list’ is drinking Luwak Coffee – this is apparently the most expensive coffee in the world and has major health benefits. Yeah right…yet to be convinced. However, if you remember the film with Morgan Freeman and Anthony Hopkins starring (Bucket List) then you might also remember that they travelled the world to drink this coffee!

“Luwak”

Brewing

Denise drinking the “Luwak” coffee…

A possum like animal (called the Luwak and is more similar to a Balinese cat) eats the coffee beans whole and after digesting these simply poos them out. Some lucky person sifts through the animals poo and removes the beans. The outside of the bean is then discarded and the bean roasted as per usual and crushed and sifted into coffee powder ready to use.

The end result – me drinking “Cat poo chino” from the white cup. Hmmm – don’t think I will be changing my drinking habits anytime soon. The flavour – just plain coffee – in my opinion.

Charlie’s Chocolate Factory – of sorts…

Charlie has a chocolate factory in Bali and it seems to be a favourite hang out spot for young romantics. It is not quite the factory you would imagine – but the business is in its infancy. They have been harvesting the cacao beans for the past four years and are now making chocolate – 85% cacao and quite bitter to 60% cacao and just nice. Carter was not too impressed – I guess he has been spoilt in New Zealand with Cadbury’s and Whitaker’s chocolate! To add to the experience they have created large swings which reach out to the ocean – you feel you are flying and coming back feels like you are going to hit the tree and its stand but regardless of that its loads of fun.

Outside Charlie’s Chocolate factory…

Carter swinging high into the air!

While travelling through the small villages and narrow roads we were able to see the locals hard at work in their rice fields. This reinforced to me just how hard these people work. A lot of their work is manual and by hand and in the hot humid weather.

Rice fields in the distance

Ketuk told us that 10sqm of field produces approximately 10kg of rice which nets about 80000 rupiah for the farmer. This is approximately $9 and that same land can be reused three times a year. So, that small area produces income of just $270 per annum. Just a couple of pictures showing the hard work.

Ketuk then drove us to a local village in Tenganan. This village is centuries old and after giving a donation to the ‘gate-keeper’ we are assigned a local to guide us through the village. Our guide lived in the village with his wife and two children, his mother and grandmother. Both mother and grandmother weaved beautiful sarongs and mats and they also made ancient calendars using banana leaves.

Our guide told us of the tradition where father and son fight each other (when the son is aged 7 or more) in a ceremonial stage with other fathers/sons each using a bunch of banana leaves. Only the difference is that the banana leaves have sharp prongs on them. They each try to hit the other on the back with the leaves and only when all of the sharp prongs have been hit into the back OR the leaves are dropped to the ground, the fight finishes. For two days our guide’s wife was removing the prongs from his back and using herbal medicine to sooth the cuts and wounds. We couldn’t quite understand the reasoning behind the fighting but he assured us it was a tradition and most friendly with no winner. In fact the person with the most blood oozing from their sores is deemed the best fighter.  We saw his back six weeks later and the scars were obvious.  Yikes – pleased that’s not our tradition…

Another tradition we couldn’t quite appreciate was the cock-fighting. All over Bali we saw cane cages each with one rooster. We were told that the roosters are raised separately to ensure they grow with a dislike of other roosters. They are then fitted with a sharp razor on the back of their feet and are set upon another rooster. Once a rooster is killed they are taken home and then eaten. I guess this is an example of the circle of life…

We were walking past the local Futsal complex in Candidasa and some locals were playing a friendly game. They asked Carter if he would like to play and of course he jumped at the chance. Here’s a photo of them playing and you can just make out Carter in the blue sweatshirt and cap. He had a great time and the local boys were very kind and made sure he got to play the ball on many occasions. They don’t hold back though – man they can kick that ball and if you get in the way – too bad…I have not actually seen Carter sweat as much as he did that night! Great fitness on a hot, humid night and dressed in a sweatshirt!

Carter playing Futsal with the locals

Our time in Candidasa had come to an end. Seven days had gone by too quickly and it was time to farewell our wonderful new friends at The Natia. We showed them videos of Carter playing rugby – they seemed genuinely interested and keen to understand the rules and reasons behind running with an oval ball in hand and being thrown to the ground…Wayan and Carter played Clash of the Clans for a while together and we chatted until our taxi man arrived. Of course we had asked our friend Ketuk to take us!

SANUR – South East Bali

Our accommodation is adequate and clean although certainly not fancy. Unfortunately the internet connection at the Stana Puri Gopa Hotel is painfully slow going. It is only available in certain areas and then you still have to reconnect many times over.

We have had just one day in Kuta, Legian and Seminyak although most of that time was in Kuta. There are just so many shops and markets with various different clothes and knick knacks on offer. Carter found a Money Exchange shop and used the $20 Evelyne had given him in Christchurch to convert into rupiah. He felt very wealthy as he received over 175,000 to play with and added to some pocket money he had over 200,000. After some tough negotiation with one market vendor Carter managed to purchase a NZ Rugby playing jersey for 180,000 – down from 450,000 so he is learning the trade well. He then purchased a shark’s tooth necklace while on the beach and is rapt with his purchases.

Kuta beach has white sand and the sea a pristine blue. The white capped waves crash onto the sand and it is a wonderful sight to see and to listen to. However, this is where it ends, the street vendors continue to hassle you wanting to sell you their goods. They just didn’t want to hear “no thanks” and continue to try to pressure you into buying. This was very different to the style of the Balinese in Candidasa.

So for us, we are keen on the quieter side of the island and have spent most of our time in Sanur.  If you are young and wanting to frequent the bars and nightlife then Kuta and Legian are for you.  It is full of vibrancy and of course if very very cheap.

We instead, have preferred walking the small streets of Sanur, visiting the many different restaurants, lazing on the beach and then hiring bikes for a day and biking along the roads – although no other european in sight!  We must be crazy and indeed I did get a fright when a good sized stone flicked up from a truck and smacked me from behind – lucky it was only on my arm and not head!

You can see the sun is shining, the water is blue and the sand an off-white. Sanur has a wide shallow area which is fabulous for swimming when the tide is in – like this picture. However, if you want the waves, then you need to walk out passed the anchored boats to enjoy the surf. You can see this in the distance. The water is so inviting as the weather is hot and humid and so all three of us have been in swimming and enjoying the coolness of the water.

Sanur Beach

I have been reading the Lonely Planet’s “Southeast Asia on a Shoestring” and working out our options for Singapore in a few days time. This book is a true travellers guide and well worth purchasing. We have decided however, not to book our accommodation in advance because if Mount Raung decides to continue to push ash cloud into the sky our flights just may be delayed from Bali on Tuesday. We were caught out coming to Bali and had to forgo previously paid accommodation so are now just a little careful.

This is the third time I have tried updating the blog – each time I have lost my info due to a glitch in the internet so hopefully it works this time.  Fingers crossed.